The Perfect Amalfi Coast Guide
The Amalfi Coast is the poster child for an idyllic, luxurious vacation spot. The Amalfi Coast is lined with towns that hug steep cliffs that overlook the Tyrrhenian Sea, amazing beaches and fantastic restaurants and bars. It is no wonder it is one of the top visited locations in the world. That can however make planning a trip to this legendary area a rather daunting task. What towns should I visit? What food should I not miss? How do I get there?
We hope this guide helps ease some of those worries, afterall, a trip to a place like the Amalfi Coast should be somewhat relaxing, right?
How to get there?
There are a few ways to get to the Amalfi Coast. As most of the towns are tightly packed and on cliff sides, there are no trains that connect to any of the towns like Positano. You instead have 3 options to get here:
Take a ferry: We opted for this option, mainly because it cost less and would have saved us time. We trained from Rome to Salerno and booked a ferry from Salerno to the town of Amalfi through TravelMar. The ferry costs about 10 euros per person and also gives you the chance to see other parts of the coast that you otherwise would not see. If you go with this option, you will need to walk from Salerno train station to Salerno Concordia ferry terminal, which is a short walk. Keep in mind that ferries are not always timely; ours arrived about 45-60 minutes late, but in the end, this still is likely the fastest option. You can also book ferries from Naples that connect you to Sorrento, if you want to go that route.
Take a bus: If boats aren’t your thing, you can also opt to take a bus from Salerno, or a number of other locations. While this may also be a cheaper option, do note that the Amalfi Coast has very windy and tight roads, which can make a bus trip pretty nauseating.
Take a cab: this is by far the most expensive option, but may make sense if you are traveling with kids or want a more comfortable trip. As mentioned above though, with the roads being so narrow and windy, many towns can get gridlocked, leading to long delays. Depending on the weather, some roads can also be closed with little to no notice, which unfortunately may require you to make other arrangements.
Now that you have successfully made your transportation plans, let’s get into the fun stuff and let the relaxation begin!
Where to stay?
There is no one perfect answer on where to base yourself when visiting the Amalfi Coast.
Positano is by far the most popular city on the Coast, with super ritzy hotels and legendary views. Hotels will be the most expensive here by far, and the town can get extremely crowded during peak season. That being said, if you want the classic Amalfi Coast experience, then Positano may be your cup of tea.
Amalfi is another option for those that do not want the crazy busyness of Positano, but still want the amenities of a larger town with plenty of hotel and restaurant options. Keep in mind, the town of Amalfi can still get extremely busy, but there are more areas to escape the crowds.
Atrani
There are so many other towns to choose from, like Ravello, Maiori, and Minori to name a few. Each town has its own unique character and amenities. We would recommend you choose a place that you are comfortable spending most of your time in, rather than jumping from location to location.
After careful consideration, we opted to stay in the small town of Atrani (open in Google Maps), which is about a 10-15 minute walk away from the town of Amalfi. Atrani was a relaxing escape from the crowds of Amalfi, while still having plenty of restaurants and activities, not to mention the views from our Airbnb. This town was quiet, quaint, and felt a bit less touristy than the other towns. We were perfectly happy relaxing at the beach, but if we ever got bored or wanted to try a different restaurant, Amalfi was within walking distance. We could not recommend Atrani enough.
Stay: Domus Claudia
Where we stayed in Atrani truly made it an unforgettable part of our trip. We stayed in an Airbnb called Domus Claudia, hosted by the incredibly kind Eddi. After a delayed ferry to Amalfi, we finally arrived and were greeted by Eddi who led us to our stay. When we arrived, our jaws dropped. The views of the sea and the town of Atrani were breathtaking, and the private balcony was a huge bonus.
Atrani Beach
Just below the Airbnb, and reachable by a few staircases (there are a lot of stairs), you have the main beach in Atrani. We had a wonderful time swimming and working off the countless pasta dinners we had (and would continue to have). The views of the sea and the dome of the Collegiate Santa Maria Maddalena made the beach even more enjoyable, because even if you aren't a beach person, at least you have a view.
Le Arcate
Just off the beach is Le Arcate, a restaurant we went to multiple times during our stay. They have a great menu with local ingredients, like seafood pasta, and at night they turn into a pizzeria. Our first day we came here after a walk around the town and some much needed beach time, and soaked in the views while sipping on limoncello spritzes. What a time to be alive!
Santuario Santa Maria
For the best view in Atrani (and maybe one of the best views in all of the Amalfi Coast), be sure to check out Santuario Santa Maria. From the city square of Atrani, you meander on up the city, through steep and narrow staircases, passing by tiny houses, getting sneak peaks of the incredible view you are hiking for. It is a bit of a workout, but the payoff at the end is worth all the sweat. When we got to the top, a church choir was singing as we gazed at the dazzling sea and the many scattered rooftops of the town. It was a truly heavenly experience, and one that I think about often.
Amalfi
A short walk from Atrani, is the town of Amalfi. Here you will find loads of great restaurant options, fun and quirky tourist shops, gelaterias, and cafes. For an escape from the heat, we also enjoyed touring the Duomo di Amalfi, which has some beautifully ornate marble work and a crypt, which gets very cool. It made for a refreshing and educational reprieve.
Andrea Pansa
Located right in the main square of Amalfi, is Andrea Pansa, which makes some incredibly delicious pastries. We may have ordered too much, but we were hungry and vacation mode was in full swing. It can get quite busy, but if you can snag a cafe table outside, you will not regret it.
Agricola Fore Porta
Want another hike you say? Alright, well if you insist. For another incredible hike, with a tasty finish, be sure to make the pilgrimage to Agricola Fore Porta. This farm to table restaurant in the hills above Amalfi makes for an unforgettable lunch. As you hike up the hill, you are surrounded by cliffs and lemon groves. Most people do not travel up this far, so you will also escape most of the crowds, if that is something you are hoping for. The food at Agricola Fore Porta was supremely fresh and delicious, the eggplant parmesan, the zucchini spaghetti, the massive bruschetta, everything was the epitome of classic Italian food, but fresher and better.
Sensi
You know what makes espresso even better? Adding gelato to the mix! Vivoli (open in Google Maps) makes insanely delicious affogatos in a classic Italian cafe atmosphere. Affogatos are always going to taste amazing, but these were in a world of their own in terms of creaminess and flavor.
Boat Tour
Since we stationed ourselves around Atrani and Amalfi, we wanted to be sure we could see the other parts of the coast, and what better way than seeing it from the water. We booked a boat tour through (link). They were very timely, were excellent hosts, and kept the good vibes and the drinks flowing. You get the chance to see famous villas (like the Villa of Jacqueline Kennedy) and swim in several coves as you eventually make it to the famous view of Positano.
What a sight for sore eyes. On this tour, you get some time to explore the town of Positano and grab a lunch, before you jet back out to see other famous spots along the coast. If you have a shorter stint on the Amalfi Coast like we did, we would highly recommend booking a boat tour like this one.